Hidden Gem: Hiraoka Hike, Waterfall and Tsutsuji Flowers

To the north east of Osaka, there’s a park called Hiraoka Park. But there isn’t just a park – there are a lot of hiking routes here too! The route I’m going to take you through today is all uphill, starting and ending at Hiraoka Station.

Indicative map of the hike and its main sights

Level of difficulty: 4 out of 5 (elevation change ~400m). The duration of the hike can be as long as you want it to be, it can last between 3-5hrs and cover a distance of 10-12km. The route is steep, with plenty of places to rest. I would reserve a whole day to make the most of your hike.

Access

To get to the Hiraoka, from Umeda Station take a train on the Midosuji line and get off at Namba. From Namba, swap to the Kintetsu-Nara Line and take the Sub Semi-Express toward Yamato-Saidaiji. Get off the train at Hiraoka. An express train should take about 20 minutes or so. Please note that this is an unmanned station.

First, a visit to the Hiraoka Jinja Shrine (枚岡神社)

Leave Hiraoka Station and turn right. Head towards the railway crossing, cross over the railway tracks and be careful. Once over the railway tracks turn right and head up until you reach a Tori gate on your left. This Tori gate is called Ni-no-Torii Gate, second Shinto Shine arch of Hiraoka Jinja. Make your way up and follow the blue flags to reach Hiraoka Jinja Shrine and the Hayden Shrine Hall of worship. This is a centuries-old shrine reconstructed in 1826, with sweeping views of Osaka & spring plum blossoms. The shrine is known as one of the few power spots in Osaka. It hosts various festivals throughout the year, including traditional celebrations like the Setsubun Festival, where beans are thrown to ward off evil spirits, and events dedicated to the local harvest. Take a moment to admire its beauty and make a wish.

Many temples and shrines throughout Japan burn incense. I recommend this Incense Gift Set with Low Smoke Incense and Ceramic Incense Holder with Brass Stand as a great gift for someone who loves Japan!

The Hike

After a visit to Hiraoka Jinja Shrine, make your way back down to begin the hike. Keep left to follow the road to the left of the shrine (north of the car park). Here you will walk along the road for a short section before reaching Uber Geike Pond. The pond looks unassuming – but it has an interesting story!

The pond has been called Ubagaike since ancient times. It originates from a Legend of a Sad Old Woman Throwing Herself, which happened 600 years ago. The legend goes that every night the oil in the sacred lantern at Hiraoka Shrine ran out, and the fires would disappear one after another. It was discovered that an old woman who was struggling to make ends meet had been stealing and selling the oil. The person who found out felt sorry for her and released her. However, the rumours spread that the old woman threw herself into the pond, and no one in the village felt sorry for her, thinking that she had been punished by Myojin. It is said that pale flames appeared nearby and troubled the villagers. This story appears in many haiku and plays, including a short story by Ihara Saikaku, as Ubagaike no Gadai. It is also listed in Japanese and Chinese Sansai Zue and Kawachi Famous Places.

From the (now interesting!) pond, continue walking left until you reach Kuragane Bridge. Pass over the short bridge, stopping to get food or a drink if you need one, and make a right turn. Turning right will take you uphill along the road for a short section before arriving at a seating area on your right hand side when I went there were some cats residing in the seating area looking very chilled out and loved up! From here, you can either follow the road or you can follow the small stone paved steps up. Assuming you follow the road, be sure to watch out for cars. Continue uphill until you reach a bright red bridge on your right hand side – this is Toyoura Bridge – walk over the bridge and follow the steps to walk alongside the river and view the waterfall.

Toyoura Bridge

Wow, what a scenic and tranquil setting for a picnic. It felt like I had this entire place all to myself so if you’re looking for somewhere to escape alone or with your friends or family in Osaka, I definitely recommend this spot. It’s a lot less busy than Minoh Waterfall as well. You can even get close to the water so that you can dip your feet in. This spot has a truly magical and peaceful vibe to escape the city for a while to reset.

View Rice Terraces

You can then choose to hike further up the path to see Kenji Buddhist temple and the Caughey Togay Rice Terraces! If you would have told me that you can see rice terraces in Osaka, I wouldn’t have believed you. Japan has many stunning rice terraces known as “tanada” (棚田). If you decide to continue your hike further from the rice terraces, you can make your way around to the right following the hiking path.

The Final Stretch to Tsutsuji Flowers Road

Continuing your hike will come with a reward! it will lead you towards an observation deck known as Hiraoka Observatory. You will be met with absolutely breathtaking views from here. I won’t ruin the reward for you. A short walk further then leads you to the end of your hike – the beautiful Tsutsuju Flowers Road, which has a stunning natural display of flowers! This is a great place to end your hike and have a rest before making your way back down the route toward the train station.

Make your way back down toward the train station and be sure to get the train back from Platform 2 toward Osaka. Alternatively Platform 1 will take you towards the popular deer spot – Nara!

Top tips for the hike

When I went on the hike in mid-march it was quite humid that day 23°, I don’t recommend hiking far in the height of summer when it will be too hot. There are signs for forest fires and snakes on your hike – so be sure to keep an eye out. I personally didn’t see any snakes. Here are my tips:

  • Make sure you bring your own food and drink
  • Wear a hat and cover your arms and legs because there’s quite a few midges and potentially mosquitoes.
  • Take photos of the route on your way around so you don’t get lost and have a reference point.
  • Be careful on the road and watch out for cars and bikes; though generally in Japan a lot of people seem to drive very respectfully.
  • People live on part of the route so make sure that you remain respectful don’t take photos of them.

Be prepared for your hikes! Mont-bell is a very popular brand that most hikers wear in Japan.

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